Duende Defined - Sevilla
What is duende? The origins of the word are related to ghosts and spirits. Merriam-Webster defines it as the ability to attract or charm. It is likened to charisma. But duende is deeper than that. In my opinion, duende is soul. There is an awful lot of duende in Sevilla.
This is one of my favorite pictures, from this last trip or any other. It was our first night in Sevilla. The air was warm, moist and slightly sticky. We were walking along Calle Betis on the Guadalquivir River, scoping out the right place to stop for a sherry and some tapas. The sky was turning the loveliest shade of violet, which was reflected, along with the lights from the bridge, on the calm water. I felt like I was being seduced by the entire city. I like being seduced.
The following two nights were no different. Good looking people, young and old, out late into the night. Side streets and alleys filled with bars and restaurants, each with chairs and tables spilling into our path like wine from upended bottles.
If you drive into Sevilla, you will quickly realize it is best to just park the car and get out. It is built for walking. We did, but when we hailed a cab to take us to our hotel, he looked at us like we were nuts, drove about 300 meters, pointed to a narrow street and effectively told us we would have to walk. He was right. So much happens in these narrow lanes and alleys where very few cars can pass and even fewer wish to try.
As we wandered through the throngs of lovely people, or made our way to dinner or sightseeing, I thought more and more about this elusive duende. It was difficult for me to pin down. I think much of it comes with experience - discovering all that the world around you has to offer. Like many of the great Spanish cities, Sevilla certainly has history. For instance, it was a focal point for the voyages of Columbus. His sepulcher rests inside Sevilla's primary cathedral, on the shoulders of four figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain in 1492. It is spectacular and somber at the same time, and I found it quite moving.
My camera battery had died so I had to rely on my Blackberry. But I managed to get a couple of photos that capture the mood. By the way, the large painting looking down onto Columbus is of Saint Christopher, the patron saint of travelers.
Can you make out the bats on the back of the cloak? I loved these figures, so ghostlike and yet so real. This unique resting place originally stood in Havana, but was moved when Cuba declared its independence. I suspect if there is any other place that may rival Spain in duende, my guess is it would be Cuba. I will have to go there some day to find out.
Flamenco is often spoken of as the artistic expression of duende, and Sevilla is known as the best place in Spain to see it. It often breaks out spontaneously in bars and streets late into the night. We decided to go to a more formal, slightly touristy venue to see an actual show.
The show featured several lovely young women and one fiery young male. Their dancing was incredible. One of the women was tall and lean, with willowy arms and lovely long legs. Another had a sultry smile and a curvy figure. The young man was like a flamenco version of Cristiano Ronaldo: incredible athleticism, lightning fast feet and dazzling white teeth. But then an older woman appeared on stage, and the word duende began to have meaning for me.
She was old enough to be the willowy one's mother. She was thicker, and had more lines on her face. From the time she began her dance, the crowd was transfixed. Every move expressed an emotion, from desire to sadness to anger to ecstacy. Every step had meaning. An entire lifetime was captured in her performance.
Photos weren't allowed, but it wouldn't have mattered. What she brought to her performance would not have shown up on film. Soul never does. I still can't give an exact definition of duende, but she helped me see what it looks like. It looks like life lived to its fullest.
