Göteborg, Green

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Winter had been long and harsh and spring reluctant to make itself known. Even just a week earlier there had been flurries and icy rain. On this day, however, the temperature was in the 70s and the color green was everywhere. As if knowing time would be limited, every plant in Sweden was racing to sprout, grow and reproduce. Swedes, pale from the long winter, were occupying these green spaces in hushed excitement, removing layers of clothing slowly, tentatively, as if understanding that this warmth and sunshine could disappear in a flash.

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Göteborg is a seafaring town, and we took a tour of the harbor. Ships in dry-dock, being repaired and cleaned up. Coast guard types practicing rescue scenarios. Tourists in tour boats, snapping pictures of Swedish girls sunning themselves. The sun flashed brilliantly off the water, highlighting the colors of the boats and the cranes and the workers on the docks.

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And this is the Feskekôrka- literally, the fish church - a fantastic hall filled with delectable delicacies from the deep. Beautifully, simply designed, it was a cooling, calming retreat from what was becoming almost a hot day outside.

The air was humid and we got sticky as we strolled through the cities high points, like the massive statue of Poseidon, standing proudly with a shell in one hand and a big fish in the other. Families were out and about, gathering for lunch and posing for pictures.

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It reminded me of my university days in Iowa, when the icy winter wind finally subsided and I could walk to class without a parka. I knew what these Swedes were feeling right now. I'd been there myself. 

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You can tell that this degree of warmth had come on suddenly, as the trees were just barely beginning to show their budding leaves. That bright, almost electric green is one of my favorite colors, and one of my favorite things about spring. It is the ecstatic expression of living itself, and the continual promise of new beginnings. No matter how cold and long a winter might be, once that special spring green begins to show, you know you are going to be alright.

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Of course, there are certain things that are unbelievably good all year round. Case in point, the hagabulle shown above. What is a hagabulle, you ask? As far as I am concerned it is the worlds largest and tastiest sweet roll. A delightfully chewy pastry laced with cardamom, cinnamon and sugar, and sold at Cafe Husaren, "home of the hagabullen." The small chocolate thing next to it was good too, but really just an afterthought when paired with that bohemoth bun. The three of us managed to make a dent, but had to take the rest home for breakfast the next morning.

A warm Spring day in Gothenburg. The world buzzing to life in a frenzy of color. I am glad I was there on that day. I wouldn't mind being there again and again, in each of its remaining seasons. But I bet I will like spring best.

Matthew Housel

Travel, food and thinking for yourself.

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GöteborgsVarvet - The Mother of All Half-marathons

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Swedish Seaside Massacre