It was time for our annual Spring trip with The Lovelies - Marla and Dani - and Madrid was our destination. It was Holy Week, or Semana Santa. We arrived early in the morning on Good Friday. The streets were empty and our ride into the heart of the city was peaceful.

One of the first things I noticed, with the sun still low but climbing and the shadows still long but getting shorter, is that Madrid appeared to have gotten better. It appeared cleaner, brighter, greener than our last visit, 13 years ago (and it was lovely then). I had followed Madrid's (and Spain's)  rising fortunes in the news, but now I was going to see it for myself - had this great place gotten even better?

Having arrived early, we had to wait for the apartment to be cleaned. It was beginning to rain and was quite chilly so we settled into a bar in the adjacent square - Plaza Tirso de Molina - and had coffee and croissants. Dani had hot chocolate and thank God she did because I got to finish it for her and there is nothing as wonderful as Spanish hot chocolate. It is thick. It is dense. It makes you feel like you are tasting chocolate for the first time.

I have family in Madrid - my aunt moved there probably 30 years ago, married a Spaniard, raised two daughters and never looked back. They live in a pretty suburb and one of their daughters has a fantastic apartment in the heart of the city. Her place was the central point for much of the action during our week in Madrid.

That action included watching the Good Friday processionals - one of the most interesting and moving spectacles I have seen in a long time. I know this description will be inadequate but I can only describe it as Spanish. With traditionally dressed women carrying an enormous float of the Virgin (men carrying Jesus) and horn/drum bands playing the most Spanish sounding music I have ever heard, I can't think of any other words  - except beautiful.

Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate and the processional we were watching had to turn around and head home, lest the centuries-old icons get damaged by the rain. Fortunately, that left us with little to do except head out for tapas.

We were very cold and very tired and very hungry. The streets, bars and restaurants were clogged with thousands of Madrileños. We snaked our way in to the Plaza Santa Ana and went from bar to bar, looking for one that could seat a party of eight. Finally, we settled at  Lateral, a stylish, modern place selling a modern version of Spanish cuisine.

Dining with my Spanish uncle is a treat. Dining with him in Spain is even better. He loves sharing good food and drink and to him the best food and drink is Spanish. So when we finally were seated that first cold night, many hours after we had left Connecticut, and after watching the penitent parade in the rain, he and his daughter ordered everything that sounded good. Which is to say I think they ordered everything. What a wonderful way to start a holy week.   

Judging from our first night in Madrid, yes indeed, the place seemed to have gotten nothing but better.

Next time - Spanish vermouth and The Crisis...