Mofongo and Me
Let's take a break from Poulet in Provence to talk about something more "local": Mofongo in Hartford.
Saturday morning, Marissa had a hair appointment in West Hartford. West Hartford is the squeaky clean, mostly white, upscale town adjoining Hartford. It is still urban, and runs right into the grittier, larger and more diverse city, but it is also in its own little world. If you aren't getting the picture, let me put it to you this way - its where the Whole Foods is.
After her appointment, we were hungry (of course). A week or so earlier, she had read about a Puerto Rican place that had been in Hartford for many years. Hmmm...maybe we should just try that.
Hartford has a large Puerto Rican population, and driving into that part of town makes West Hartford seem 1,000 miles away. All the storefront signs are in Spanish and very few people we saw looked like me. This was encouraging. We drove quite a ways and were just about to turn around when we spotted the place under a green awning in an old brick building on the corner - Comerio.
The minute we walked in the door I knew it was going to be good. It was small, but crowded, and it had a to-go counter with unbelievably good-looking food stacked behind the glass. I don't know much about Puerto Rican food so I don't know what they are called, but there were big, round mega-dumpling things that I think were made from potatoes, and empanada-looking pastries, and beautiful, juicy meats on sticks.
Another good sign - it was slightly chaotic, in that people were coming and going and talking to each other and eating and working and everyone appeared to be enjoying themselves but it wasn't clear if we were to seat ourselves or order at the counter and if we did where was the menu and were there any free tables and...so I asked the guy who seemed to be keeping things moving and he said:
"Yes, you can sit wherever you like".
Quickly sensing that we had not yet caught up with the energy of the place, but kind enough to not make us feel self-conscious, he quickly cleared a table, sat us down and gave us menus. Then he gave us a minute to get oriented.
There was a small lunch counter and maybe a half-dozen tables, and the chairs were inexpensive metal frame with that leatherette material. There were bottles of catsup and hot sauce and Wishbone Italian Dressing on the tables. The restroom required a key that you picked up at the lunch counter and had a big sign on it declaring it for use by customers only. We were near the kitchen, and an older gentleman, I am assuming someone's dad, or maybe the guy who started the place, or both, was hauling in boxes that were way to heavy for someone his age and size.
I ordered the special of the day: Stewed goat with rice and pigeon peas and a side of beans - and a small order of Mofongo. Mofongo is a mixture of mashed fried plantains, garlic, and pork bits. It is covered in a flavorful red sauce. It is delicious, and perfect for a cold fall day. This was my first time and I loved it. Marissa had the lechon (roasted pork) and a side of plantains. Also delicious.
I didn't have my camera. Even if I had, I wouldn't have used it. This was the kind of place and the moment was such that snapping pictures would have just ruined things. Instead, we simply ate and enjoyed ourselves, watching a young family with two very well-behaved and one naughty little boy, and talking with the guy who had seated us and another employee, as they asked us how we liked the food and we joked that they were feeding me the way my mother in-law does: too much and with all the fatty bits.
Comerio is the kind of place I love: simple, authentic food prepared by nice people who care deeply that the food represent not only where they are from but who they are. These are people who want to share with you and are happy when you let them. Sure, I payed for the food, but it was nothing compared to what I got.
