Siena Style

Siena. Nestled on a hillside in the heart of Tuscany, it is one of my favorite cities in the world. In fact, when my ship finally comes in, I am going to buy a cute little place in some 500 year old structure and spend all autumn there, sleeping late, eating wild game and drinking fantastic wine.

For now, spending most of our Sunday there would have to suffice. This means parking just outside the wall and winding our way through narrow streets and alleyways until we reach the heart of the town: Piazza del Campo.

"Freaking spectacular" (only I don't say "Freaking") is what comes out of my mouth every time I walk back into this square. A wide open semicircle, paved in brick during the 14th century, sloping down to the Palazzo Publico (seen here) and filled with every stripe of humanity, from Angola to New Zealand.

The palazzo itself is quite cool, with an open courtyard in the center, where you can sit under the watchful eye of the tower as the clouds swoosh by.

You can spend an entire day in this square, and lots of people do, moving with the shade from one side of the square to the other. We prefer to mix it up - enjoying the ambiance from the ground within the square and the view from one of our favorite bars in the world: Bar Paninoteca.

Just go there. Order any of the fine German beers they have on tap and head out to the narrow little balcony. Watch people in the square. Watch the animals and birds. Talk to the strangers you meet on the balcony. Take everything in while you get a little lightheaded from the beer and the sunshine. But don't linger too long. Others would like to come out there and besides, you don't want to get drunk. There is too much more to see.

This fine day was a Sunday, and there were lots of people from the surrounding area in town, in addition to all the tourists. As the afternoon grew late and we approached 5PM, the passeggiata began. What is the passeggiata? It is the time that Italians take to get out and, literally, stroll through town.

Young families with baby strollers, older couples, arm in arm , single guys out on the prowl, it seems like everyone participates in this early evening ritual - a mixture of walking, shopping, gossiping and gelato (or perhaps an aperitivo). The narrow streets get crowded and the foot traffic moves slowly, groups stopping to say "Ciao!" as they see their friends or neighbors.

It is a great opportunity to stop and watch people.Which is why I, after a delicious cone from Grom, perched myself on a bench and observed, while the rest of my party did some shopping.

A river of humanity flowing by me, I asked silent questions: "where are they all going? What are they thinking/talking about? What are they having for dinner tonight?" and pictured myself in their shoes: "I'd be heading to my friend Paolo's right now, to help prepare the antipasti for the party this evening. We will open a fine prosecco and wait for all of the beautiful people to arrive."

I got a little bored with the fantasizing and decided to see what it would be like if I were a paparazzo. I got out the camera and began taking shots of people on the sly. Actually, let me correct that - I started trying to take pictures of people on the sly. It is not easy! Papparazzi might be kind of sleazy, but one can't say that they aren't skilled. I did manage to get two shots that I was happy enough to keep, and I think each tells its own little story of intrigue:

Photo #1. A lovely young Italian actress visiting from Rome for the weekend. She is looking for some quietude and to get away from that horrible Silvio Berlusconi, who has been pestering her to date him for the past year. Crazy, dirty old man, she wouldn't dream of it! Who cares that he is one of the most powerful men in Italy - he is a pig! She thinks the red-framed sunglasses will disguise her, but she is wrong. One papparazzo has already seen her and is sneaking up behind, his camera out and ready. And now I have spotted her and fired off the perfect shot. This could make my career. But no, I will keep it to myself. She deserves a little privacy.

Photo #2. Another lovely lady, this one looks like she isn't from Italy. Paris perhaps? Maybe Singapore? No, I know, the West Coast of the US! Yes, she is definitely an American. Shopping for leather goods today, she will return to her villa later, to a meal of porchetta, peperonata and Chianti Classico. She has come to Tuscany not to escape life, to experience it. She is beautiful and she wouldn't give a guy like Silvio the time of day either. Whoever is lucky enough to be with her is to be envied. She is one of a kind.

Leather belt purchased, it was time for us to walk back to the car and head home, to the villa, where, as I mentioned, we had a meal waiting...