The mother of all road trips: OH - IA

3,144

That is the number of miles between Broad Brook, Connecticut and San Mateo, California, and we felt every single one. The next few posts will give just the highlights of those 3,000 + miles.

My job actually began with two days of meetings in New Jersey, a quick couple of hours from Broad Brook. The terrain was similar, the people familiar and, in a way, a false start. Three days in a tony Jersey suburb - a cushy if somewhat bland start to a long journey. I don't have any pictures to share.

But the next stop was Cleveland and that is when things started getting interesting.

Take the West Side Market, in Ohio City - a lovely old Cleveland neighborhood. The market was built 100 years ago specifically as a showcase for the city's farmers, butchers, cheese-makers, bakers, etc. and continues that tradition to this day.

And what a tradition it is! The best-looking fresh pork, smoked meats, sausage, old European pastries, and new world produce I had seen under one roof in a very long time. As it turns out, the bed and breakfast we crashed in was only two blocks away and they buy their bacon here, which means we had it for breakfast. Now, I have had a lot of bacon in my life and this was easily THE BEST BACON I HAVE EVER, EVER EATEN. My only regret from the entire 3,000 mile journey? That I did not eat more of the bacon in Cleveland.

I must also say that - in the 14 hours or so that we were in Cleveland - we met several very nice people, enjoyed a couple of terrific meals (one at the B-n-B, the other at a Turkish place called Alaturka.) and left wishing we had a little more time to spend there. Hats off to you, Cleveland, for completely exceeding our expectations!

Then it was off to Des Moines, Iowa, via Ohio, Indiana and Illinois.

Cleveland, Ohio to Des Moines, Iowa. One long-ass drive, but not without its beautiful moments.

So we pull into Des Moines around 7PM, and our hosts at Butler House were graciously waiting and ready to help us get settled in and into downtown for a bite to eat and a stroll through the world class sculpture garden.

Yes, you heard me. Des Moines, Iowa has a world class sculpture garden, open to the public without any fees whatsoever.

Here we have Nomade, by Jaume Plensa. A really impressive piece of work by an artist I've recently come to know and admire. This was my favorite, but there are many more, including works by Louise Bourgeois, Keith Haring, and Willem de Kooning, among many others.

The park is situated at the busy end of what many small cities - including the one I grew up in - endure every summer weekend, the teenager cruise spot. As the hour grew later, the lanes got thicker with car after car of Iowa teens flossin' and frontin' for a little bit of attention. At first, I wondered who would place all of this incredible art in the middle of this sticky hormone jungle. Then it occurred to me that this was actually a brilliant place to put it.

As the kids went round and round and round, trying to impress each other, they couldn't help but see these magnificent works of art, and maybe, just maybe, begin to appreciate them. Who knows, maybe one or two of them will be inspired to create their own art, and the next Haring, or Plensa, or Picasso will be born.

So, kudos to you, Des Moines, for being both hospitable and sophisticated. More American cities need to be like you.

Stay tuned as we cross Nebraska and make it to Cheyenne, Wyoming...