I (Heart) Budapest, part 2

Stepping off the train at Budapest Keleti station feels like stepping into 1986. The gloriously dilapidated structure remains somehow behind the iron curtain, slowly disintegrating under the weight of Soviet occupation.

Only there is no occupation. Communism is long gone and Hungary has enjoyed some of the most impressive GDP growth rates in Europe for years.

So why is the main Budapest train station the way it is? I know this might sound silly, but I think it is the way it is because it looks cool.

Budapest is filled with structures that look cool.

Constructed at the end of the 19th century, Keleti station has not gotten the upkeep its majestic facade deserves. What quick research I could do revealed something about needing to complete track re-work before renovating the station. That track work was scheduled to end in 2020. Given the year so far, I wonder if that is likely to happen?

The station is just one of many fantastic structures in and around Budapest. Following are more of my favorites.

Art Nouveau Buildings
As Art Nouveau swept Europe at the turn of the 20th century, Hungarians took to it passionately and created their own version, known as the Hungarian Secession (in contrast to the Secession movement taking place in Vienna.)

The Secession was a movement by many artists and architects to split from stuffy academia and established norms. The Vienna Secession favored the ornate nature of Art Nouveau over the old styles.

Art Nouveau was inspired by organic shapes and elegant, sinuous forms. The Hungarian Secession, in turn, incorporated old Magyar and Turkic folk art, creating something not only new and modern, but distinctly Hungarian. Many of the buildings that came from this period still exist in Budapest and they are still unique and exciting to see.

Spectacular Bridges
There are several connecting Buda with Pest and they are all beautiful, from the 18th Century Széchenyi Chain Bridge to the 20th Century Megyeri Bridge, And at night they light up the Danube like diamond bracelets adorning a long, elegant wrist.

A Gleaming Symphony Hall
A jewel box. That is what it felt like. A concerto of colors, playing at forte long before the orchestra even arrived. Perhaps a bit over the top, sure, but the music lived up to the grandeur. Kirill Gerstein and the Hungarian National Philharmonic playing Liszt: Faust Symphony, S. 108, complete with a choir. It was stirring, to say the least.

The Most Enormous Parliament Building Ever
One of the iconic buildings of Europe, really. Only a tenth of the space is needed by parliament these days. But who cares? Its a symbol. A symbol of a bygone empire and a symbol of current greatness and a symbol of even greater potential. It is the perfect piece of propaganda for the current Hungarian government, headed by a person Donald Trump admires.

Need I say more?

But you’ve got to admit it is something to look at, especially lit up at night. Funny how propaganda works best in the dark.

Public Baths
Finally, one can’t talk about architecture and communal space in Budapest without talking about the public baths. A tradition that is not only good for you, but looks so good as well. With over 100 hot springs providing plenty of mineral-rich, steamy water, there are many baths to enjoy. And many are housed in buildings and grounds that reflect the same funky Hungarian aesthetic in which the rest of the city is so rich.

We spent the afternoon at the Szechenyi Baths, wandering from pool to pool, sauna to steam bath. I even wore a tiny little European bathing suit.

More to see, more to do.
Once again, I have only scratched the surface of another fascinating attribute of Budapest. I am not doing any of it justice.

When this pandemic has eased and we can resume regular travel, I will go back and I will try to go deeper.